Daniel Silverstein, mostly known as Zero Waste Daniel, is a Brooklyn-based fashion designer and zero waste lifestyle connoisseur who uses pre-consumer waste sourced from New York City’s garment industry, as well as other hard-to-recycle materials, to create his line of genderless clothing and accessories. Screen Shot went to Sustainable fashion is hilarious, his New York Fashion Week show to find out who—and what—killed fashion.
Carrie Bradshaw once described Fashion Week as the only time “the women of New York leave the past behind and look forward to the future.” As a young girl, attending fashion week had always been on my bucket list. Dialling it back to 2016, I received my first invitation but had to decline. By 2017, I found myself down at Pier 59 attending shows surrounded by celebrities I had only ever seen on TV. Enthralled with excitement, I also realised that my experience wasn’t what I imagined it to be.
By 2018, my enthusiasm for fashion weeks had almost died out. It was no longer the ‘it’ thing to do—the excitement, the passion and the purpose of it all was gone. And as I later found out, I was not the only one that felt so. New York did too. That’s why, as hard as it is to hear, fashion truly is dead. Zero Waste Daniel said so.
The fourth instalment of Silverstein’s show consisted of a 15-room immersive experience at Arcadia Earth, a climate installation museum in downtown New York. Honouring fashion through an investigative series and a eulogy, the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) alumni opened the show with a speech about the fashion industry, what it represented and what it no longer stands for.
Zero Waste Daniel then asked attendees the simplistic yet deeply layered question: “Who killed fashion?”
As Silverstein’s show took me through the lifespan of what once was a thriving industry, I was faced with the various culprits, each represented by models wearing signs reading who and what are guilty of this. The first one? Saying goodbye to Bryant Park. Since 1993, New York Fashion Week was famous for its Bryant Park tents where small designers used to showcase their lines to the rest of the fashion industry. In 2010, New York Fashion Week grew to nearly 300 shows a week, which meant that tents had to be removed from Bryant Park and relocated to the Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts.
What was once a highly-exclusive event, much like the overly anticipated Met Gala, became easily accessible via Youtube and Instagram live streamings. Influencers are now the new celebrities. and personal style blogging is the new reported press. “Was it polyester or was it stretch pants?” read a sign held by a model during Zero Waste Daniel’s show.
“Was it online shopping?” reads another sign, acknowledging the fact that we are in an age of fast fashion where brands like Fashion Nova and websites like Amazon can deliver an ‘inspired by’ look to your door in three days or less. Fashion today is no longer representative of how consumers shop. Fashion weeks were meant to highlight collections that were not available for at least six months. Now, this is gone, too.
Each of Silverstein’s models metaphorically plays detective in what would’ve been a police lineup aiming to identify who the guilty party is. As the show wraps, I reached the understanding that all of these things had a hand in the slow and painful death of the fashion industry; all bound by one commonality—greed.
“We mourn the death of…” Silverstein notes in his written eulogy paying respect to trends gone too quickly and the falling of fashion brands like “Fubu and Baby Phat.” Drawing from his personal experiences and knowledge of sustainability, Silverstein created Sustainable fashion is hilarious to serve as a gateway.
“We make too much, and we buy too much, but that doesn’t have to mean we waste too much,” he said during his show, an idea that relates to an interview he previously had with the New York Times where he shared why he felt compelled to take on the world of sustainable fashion: “When I think about what I want in terms of brand recognition, I would love to see [Zero Waste Daniel] as a household name. But I think that’s very different than dollars. And I don’t want to be any bigger than I can guarantee it’s a zero-waste product or that I feel happy.”
Will Zero Waste Daniel be the one to bring fashion back from the dead and offer it a new breath of life? Or will consumerism and capitalism continue to rob us of an industry that we all once knew and loved? Only time will tell, but the clock is ticking and only Silverstein and a few others seem to realise that.
Amidst an environmental crisis, environmental activist group Extinction Rebellion is calling for the cancellation of London Fashion Week. But what would cancelling London Fashion Week really achieve, and how would it affect independent designers not participating in mass production?
The fashion industry is one of the biggest polluters impacting our planet right now, and it is not looking good. There is an endless cycle of clothes ending up in landfills annually (over a million tonnes of which are from the U.K. alone), the industry produces around 10 percent of the global greenhouse emissions, and chemical dyes polluting water produce about 20 percent of water waste yearly. This industry is predicted to grow by 63 percent by 2030, and the textile industry is expected to produce 25 percent of all carbon emissions by 2050.
The Swedish Fashion Council cancelled the upcoming Stockholm Fashion Week, and Extinction Rebellion demands the British Fashion Council do the same. By planning creative disruptive actions throughout the event, with a funeral commemorating the loss of life due to climate change, the organisation hopes to bring our awareness to just how harmful the fashion industry is. A number of companies within the industry are also taking a stand to boycott LFW in various ways—London-based fashion magazine Bricks, as an example, decided not to cover LFW this year.
Here is the thing, though, London Fashion Week is a platform that showcases a number of independent and emerging talent, many of whom don’t even have the means to mass-produce if they wanted to (then we would be having an entirely different conversation). Many designers each year advocate awareness for sustainability and choose to use recycled fabrics and environmentally friendly textiles. That is not to say that LFW only supports independent designers, with big companies like Burberry participating who are far from being sustainable, but the real evil is the fast fashion industry.
It is, of course, important to note that without high end fashion, fast fashion would never exist in the first place. Emerging in the 90s, fast fashion promotes rapid and mass production of cheap clothing to meet the most recent fashion trends. These fashion trends are inspired by high end fashion designers and most independent designers, and it is understandable why people choose to purchase fast fashion. In the real world, who can actually afford to splash out hundreds or thousands of pounds per clothing item? It is so unrealistic and exclusive. Plus, in the age of Instagram culture, where everybody feels they have to show off how stylish they are to their followers, overconsumption is inevitable.
By all means, this needs to change. We do engage in constant, mindless consumption, and so many of us already have more clothing than we need. But fast fashion brands don’t showcase their work during LFW—independent designers do. So is it fair to punish them by taking away their platform? Fashion is a form of art, and LFW is equivalent to Frieze Art Fair or the Venice Biennale of fashion. Many designers showcasing at LFW have worked incredibly hard to get where they are, and we simply cannot take this away from them.
Don’t get me wrong, the fashion industry does need to be regulated, ASAP. In an interview with Screen Shot, Fashion Revolution’s founder and creative director Orsola de Castro claims she is “against” canceling fashion week, saying that we need to “redesign them rather than shutting them down.” De Castro believes that, “As far as being disruptive, we need to be constructive at the same time.”
Taking into consideration how much power and energy are invested in the production of these shows: the number of flights needed to transport models, editors, influencers, buyers, and garments, greener alternatives must be found. Designers showcasing twice a year is certainly excessive, and it would be better have all fashion weeks take place once a year maximum. Recycling previous collections into their new season should also be a must—yes, many independent designers already use recycled materials, but this can be elevated.
Fashion Open Studio is also a great alternative to this, which is a week of presentations, talks, openings, and workshops shining a light on emerging designers. “We need to use Fashion Week as a place to discuss conspicuous consumption, to discuss innovation, to discuss new parameters,” says de Castro—and rightfully so. Re-showcasing work from previous seasons would also be incredibly beneficial. The second hand fashion market is set to grow bigger than the high end and luxury ones by 2022, which is great news and could help support emerging talent instead of forcing them to keep up with the pressures of creating new work and being relevant.
Let’s all start investing into second hand and thrift shopping as our go-to option. Let’s push Instagram Influencers and celebrities to promote second hand clothing over brand partnerships with fast fashion brands. We could even go as far as demanding a new law that would prohibit the promotion of fast fashion brands or brands who use unethical resources when creating clothing. We need to reconsider how we, as consumers, view fashion once and for all, and start appreciating high end fashion as an art form rather than try and replicate it. But, please, let’s not punish emerging talented artists who have worked through blood and sweat to be able to express themselves through fashion.