Fashion is going back to the Middle Ages. Thanks to the retro-futuristic shift taking place on platforms such as TikTok, the knightcore aesthetic, which blends mediaeval styles with contemporary streetwear, is taking us on a nostalgia-induced trip no one could have predicted. This trend redefines the boundaries between historical inspiration and forward-facing style, ushering us into a new era where the grandeur of the past informs the look and feel of the present. Even though Gen Z may be young in age, they are using fashion trends like knightcore to build a future where they are ready for whatever comes their way.
If you’re in search of evidence for this hyperreal battle-ready attire in action, look no further than Chappell Roan’s red carpet and on-stage outfits at the 2024 MTV Video Music Awards (VMAs). Trust your favourite artist’s favourite artist to take us back to mediaeval times in an intensely theatrical moment, not once but twice.
First, in a Y/Project gown on the red carpet topped with a mint green cape teamed with metal cuffs and a sword as an accessory. Then again for her first VMAs performance where she emerged on stage as a literal knight in shining armour wearing a full metal-clad suit and chainmail. This original aesthetic and world-building performance may have sweetened the deal, helping Roan win Best New Artist at the awards ceremony.
The knightcore aesthetic trend, inspired by the mystique and grandeur of centuries ago, sees items like mediaeval headpieces, chainmail details, and armour-like structures making their way into mainstream fashion, creating looks reminiscent of your favourite Game of Thrones character. It’s an assertive form of fashion that is part fantasy, part exploration. Moreover, it builds on an era of remix culture which might not be historically accurate in the slightest, but continues to captivate people all the same.
The momentum of this new wave was no doubt accelerated when Zendaya donned Thierry Mugler’s Fall/Winter 1995 body armour during her Dune: Part Two press run, merging the futuristic themes of the film with mediaeval fashion motifs. I mean, who better to kickstart a fashion trend than Gen Z fan favourite Queen Z? This moment captured the public’s imagination and whetted the appetite for Renaissance-style streetwear that’s ordinary and extraordinary all at once. Brands like Balenciaga have long tapped into this shift, with their AW21 knightcore boots worn by rap queen Cardi B.
With the world around us bleaker than ever, amid ongoing wars and heightening political tension, Gen Z is using this time to turn to TikTok trends that offer escapism in a battle-proof parallel universe. Maybe that’s why creator @s.annia wears a Joan of Arc style mediaeval metal suit freely around her college campus, which is iconic and unbelievable in equal measures. The Joan of Arc Aesthetic has over 25.1 million TikTok posts while knightcore has 51.4 million posts and counting. It’s also thanks to these trending aesthetics that we get videos such as creators transforming into lady knights, reminiscent of Brienne of Tarth (iykyk), and other Gen Z netizens dressing like mediaeval fantasy girls.
Umbro and Slam Jam have been quick to get in on the action, embracing the knightcore revival with open arms in the form of chainmail football shirts featuring the iconic double diamond, while Thug Club’s jeans, with laser-etched knight armour patterns, armour rings and helmet headwear samples push the envelope of what it means to draw from history in fashion design. Then you have Blu Boy, who fully embrace the prophecy-esque Mediaeval vibe by shooting its Collection 7 drop, which features a made-to-order chainmail type watch, alongside a sword, taking this knightcore meets streetwear clashing of the minds to a whole new level.
The rise of Weirdieval (aka Weird Girl core plus Medieval) may also have something to do with knightcore’s increasing popularity. From HBO’s The House of the Dragon to the Dune movies and The Lord of The Rings serial franchise on Amazon, this pop culture media focus has given screen time to a highly niche, Middle Ages trend revival that’s combined with aesthetics from the 90s and 2000s. It could be anything from pixie haircuts, fantastical capes, elvish boots and metal accessories that allow Gen Zers to flaunt their true inner warrior. Knightcore and Weirdieval is officially on the up, as fashion from the past prepares us for an uncertain future.