Paris Fashion Week (PFW) might have come to a close but there’s no doubt that the legacy of the Fall/Winter 2023 season will assert itself in the trends to come. From shorter-than-short micro-mini skirts to ballet flats that got us rooting through the attic for our old school shoes, Miuccia Prada is the queen of viral pieces. The latest Miu Miu runway is no exception as it introduced the shockingly irresistible glitter bloomers within a collection made specifically for the chic, dorky girls of the world. This is a trend that definitely won’t be dropping off our radars any time soon.
After Miuccia Prada and Raf Simmons came together in 2020 as co-creative directors for Prada, Miu Miu is the only brand exclusively run, and founded, by Mrs Prada herself. The label, affectionately known as Prada’s little sister, gives the designer a chance to reminisce about her younger days.
The show, which took place at PFW on Tuesday 7 March, saw Mia Goth, Zaya Wade and Amelia Gray becoming quintessential Miu Miu girls as they strut down the runway, looking as though they were shattered after a nine-to-five shift in the office.
Of course, house ambassador, Emma Corin was in attendance on the runway. Nepo babies Nicola and Brooklyn Peltz-Beckham were also spotted sitting in the front row—all gen Z favourites.
Key motifs of the collection include coloured tights and leather mini dresses that parallel JW Anderson’s Polly Pocket-inspired clothes for Loewe, reinforcing the sustainability initiatives behind having key staples that last in your wardrobe. Embroidered 3D flowers, which also featured heavily in the show, proved that summer still leaves its mark even at the start of those colder autumn nights.
The Miu Miu logo was small but present throughout, marking a shift from unobtainable and impractical luxury fashion to a more commercial approach. Overall, the collection is simpler than past seasons, but is it a sign of gen Z taking the steps toward adulthood?
The collection also hinted at coquettish office girl chic, with buttoned cardigans and midi skirts featuring heavily on the runway. Kitten heels—in a Carrie Bradshaw sense, as opposed to Theresa May—gave bog standard office footwear a more playful revamp. Bigger bags were also central to the collection as boxy, practical shapes dominated. Could we finally be saying goodbye to the Y2K micro bag?
As we all know, however, the way you look as you start your working day isn’t always the same as how you end up looking coming out. Miu Miu challenged the clean girl aesthetic with a slightly dishevelled approach to styling its FW23 collection. Models’ hair made a celebration out of bad hair days, organza gowns were subtly puckered, cardis were caught up in tights, and exposed underwear (a Miu Miu constant since SS22) paid tribute to the ever-relatable Bridget Jones’s Diary.
Several pop culture parallels have been made in connection with the standout collection. Some netizens have referenced Nanny from 101 Dalmatians. Others appreciated the nods to holy grail rags to riches flick The Princess Diaries, particularly the moments which capture Mia Thermopolis before she becomes Princess of Genovia.
Trend forecaster Mandy Lee, known on TikTok as @oldloserinbrooklyn, refers to it as ‘The Ugly Girl Trope’. It would be hard to look at the collection without also being reminded of noughties Kate Middleton. Previously a fashion icon reserved for the older generation, Depop girlies have recently been delving into old paparazzi pics of the future Queen for inspo.
Royal nostalgia truly hit its peak when Middleton stumbled out of a club into the back of a taxi, or wore yellow hot pants and leg warmers to an 80s-themed roller disco. Depop top seller, Remass , launched a collection dedicated specifically to the Princess, and not long after, the entire drop was brought up by the costume department of Netflix’s The Crown.
If you can’t wait to recreate some Miu Miu FW23 looks, try searching for cashmere cardigans, neutral midi skirts and sheer blouses on Depop’s more affordable cousin, Vinted.
So, there you have it, the Fall/Winter fashion season is over for this year. With it came a flood of neutral tones, longer hemlines and lots of knitwear contrasted with glitter pants. Miu Miu gave smart-casual office dressing a relatable spin and said: “It’s okay for your hair to be in disarray!”
If you follow fashion on any platform (or in better words, if you try to keep up with it), you’re probably feeling a bit overwhelmed at the constant overturn of trends coming at you this year—and then disappearing just as fast. One of the more popular fashion crazes at the moment? Balletcore.
Not only does the hashtag have more than 148.3 million views on TikTok at the time of writing this, it has even stepped out of our screens and appeared on multiple runways during fashion month. Simone Rocha and Halpern’s Spring 2022 ready-to-wear collections are just the tip of the tulle, lace, and bow-embellished iceberg.
Are you a fan of the style yourself but don’t know how to incorporate it into your everyday looks? Or perhaps you’re just wondering why everyone always seems to be so obsessed with ballerinas all the time, or at least every few years? Either way, don’t worry, we’re here to dissect the trend and bring you all the styling tips you need.
Balletcore is the 2022 edition of the fashion world’s century-long love affair with all things ballet—and, to be honest, what’s not to love? The silky satin fabrics, the romantic bows, the ethereal fabrics, and silhouettes—you get it. From Chanel’s iconic 1930s tulle gowns to Orseund Iris’ coveted contemporary collections, we collectively can’t seem to get enough of this timeless aesthetic, which is why ballet-inspired pieces routinely resurface on runways and in wardrobes.
So, what else about the aesthetic makes it so alluring? As The Face succinctly put it, the trend channels “the effortlessness of ballerinas—minus the brutally long hours spent in the studio.” Even if you aren’t Bella Hadid, you’ll probably still look oh-so-chic and comfy in an outfit like this.
But don’t worry, you don’t actually need those Miu Miu ballerina flats—or the equally iconic Sandy Liang version—to master the aesthetic. Bodysuits and wrap cardigans are a couple of staple pieces you probably already have in your closet that can help you embrace this style. Or you could also dive into TikTok’s numerous DIY tutorials to source your own ballet-inspired accessories. Dressing this way is “equal parts feminine and comfortable,” former dancer Bec Oakes told Refinery29.
Another way to approach balletcore is as the ultimate fusion of French girl style and athleisure. Madeleine Jones, a New York-based stylist, explained to Vogue that she sees “the ballet-all-day movement as the natural evolution from athleisure.”
Jones went on to say that “it still feels like you’re dressing up—but not overdressed.” Gone are the days of only having sweatpants or even leggings as your comfy options. Instead, consider pairing your go-to loungewear pieces with a wrap cardigan, leg warmers, or even a satin skirt for an elevated—yet relaxed—look.
The main difference between this recent spike in the beloved trend’s popularity? Inclusivity. For the first time, a diverse range of fashion-lovers are being welcomed into and embracing this movement. Take Detroit-based creator Monique Black, for instance, who styles the aesthetic as a size 20.
Speaking to Refinery29, the TikToker explained that she “really love[s] the idea of embracing femininity and softness because so often these traits aren’t associated with plus-size girls.” As for the aesthetic’s long association with thin, white women, Black mentioned that her “generation is perfectly content with ignoring the ‘industry’ and creating our own lane. We refuse to be excluded anymore.”
Chazlyn Yvonne, a 20-year-old blogger and former ballet dancer, has had a similar experience with the trend’s 2022 update. In April, she told Nylon that balletcore has led her to connect with “girls of the same aesthetic who all have completely different backgrounds, ethnicities, shapes, and sizes.” When SCREENSHOT caught up with Yvonne in October, speaking about the similarly feminine coquette aesthetic, the creator also emphasised the greater inclusivity within the current aesthetics taking over TikTok and Instagram.
With a diverse group of content creators embracing balletcore, the trend is pushed beyond its former limitations. The result? It welcomes a wide range of people while continuing to emulate the strength and femininity at the aesthetic’s very core.
If light pink tulle skirts aren’t your thing, don’t stress—balletcore is nothing if not flexible. The trend is constantly being explored and interpreted in new ways. Take, for example, some of the most stylish celebrities’ recent obsession with fingerless gloves and leg warmers. While the 80s-inspired silhouette you probably have in mind has made a comeback, the latter accessory has also gotten a contemporary update. Some eye-catching examples? Kylie Jenner’s skin-tight pair, Vaquera’s puffy, cloudwear-inspired designs, and Ottolinger’s tiered, faux fur rendition to name a few.
But avant-garde leg warmers aren’t the only new interpretation of balletcore this time around. There’s also a new sub-trend: ballerina sleaze. If hyperfemininity isn’t for you, you may find this rendition of the aesthetic more appealing. The niche trend combines the best of graceful ballerina apparel and indie sleaze—think blending your chic, contemporary cardigans and wrap skirts with soft-grunge accessories from your days scrolling Tumblr.
Choose to interpret the style however you want, whether that means full-on ballerina or a micro-mini pleated skirt with those leather, buckled Miu Miu flats—either way, we’re here for it.