The world, post-pandemic, has only worsened for a lot of us. From the burgeoning economic crisis and complete austerity to the ever-worsening climate catastrophe, there’s been a lot to deal with. But as always, an industry that continues to reflect the times as well as people’s reactions to change is the realm of fashion. Fashion, and the subcultures it forms, continues to reflect, parallel, oppose and even attempt to escape the issues gripping society.
Take goblincore and cottagecore with their aims to flee the reality of capitalism—let’s not forget the nostalgia-obsessed Weirdcore and Britishcore too—or dystopiacore even, which embraces the ‘chic-ness’ of the end of the world. Now, another fashion trend is on the horizon: a new space age.
Alongside the chaotic whirlwinds of the past few years came something that most of us didn’t even ask for—we’d rather you donate the billions you have to charity—but that didn’t stop our most famous billionaires from embarking on their dream of commercial space travel. With reports of a new space hotel, anti-ageing space missions, a seemingly misguided plan to populate Mars and space toilet troubles, we were bombarded with the news—even if most of us didn’t want to be. However, it looks like the new space age will be here to stay, and you might even be wearing it.
As technology evolves and its interaction with fashion strengthens, it’s not a stretch to assume that space and fashion may just have the same relationship. With digital fashion gaining traction in the metaverse, we’ve already seen a multitude of brands take the leap into the world of new tech. This list includes SUPERGUCCI and the most recent Maisie Wilen x Yahoo collaboration—inspired by Mattel’s Monster High, which displayed an all-holographic fashion show.
According to Lyst’s Year In Fashion 2021 report, this specific obsession with everything alien will inadvertently affect the fashion trends of 2022. On these terms, the report read, “New frontiers [in] 2021 saw some of the biggest human space flight moments in history take place, especially when it came to space tourism. This new development in travel will continue to inspire more future-minded designs and technologies.” For starters, recall Schiaparelli’s recent show at the Paris Couture Week.
The use of gold has only continued, putting metallic structure (instead of fabric) at the forefront. Dubbed as a display of “space goddesses” by Tatler, “this extraterrestrial elegance transcends to never-before reached realms of fashion, perfectly paired with gala-ready gowns and larger-than-life millinery—think Ascot on acid, on another planet.” Away from the world of couture, we see how this new space race is beginning to impact fashion in both a futuristic and nostalgic way.
“Inspired by The Space Race, 60s fashion took an experimental turn by focusing on unconventional materials (such as metals) and silhouettes, while 60s mod had a moment in 2021, advances in space tourism is set to inspire a new wave of futuristic designs,” reported TikTok trend analyst @thealgorythm.
Not only are we witnessing groundbreaking innovative ideas inspired by the new space race but epithets of the old one seem to be reviving under the same umbrella. 60s-esque elements of the decade’s own space age fashion seem to be making a reappearance with celebrities like Dua Lipa and Kendall Jenner reportedly ‘bringing back the Moon Boot’ as well as the ever-anticipated launch of Ariana Grande’s 60s space inspired makeup line, r.e.m.beauty. And who can forget the iconic Balenciaga x NASA collaboration?
It will be interesting to see which trend dominates the year: will the new space age pull us into a visceral futurism or will the doomism of avant apocalypse stop it in its tracks?
How would you dress for the apocalypse? It’s probably not something you’ve previously thought about, but I’m sure I could guess off the top of my head. Maybe something durable, a lot of layers perhaps, even multipurpose pockets like in a pair of trusty cargo pants? Facing the end of the world, you’ve got to be prepared, right? Well, it seems like fashion has asked and answered that question already, with people online birthing a trend out of such speculation. Some people are plain doomers, others are doomsday preppers. But what about those who are right in the middle, embracing the scary global chaos? Enter dystopiacore.
Gen Zers are faced with many options when it comes to fashion choices. You can take a trip down memory lane with the Bratz X GCDS line, step into your youth with a pair of glossy jelly shoes, or even bring out your inner 00s fashion model in low rise jeans.
If you dig the utility vibe and aren’t into colourful fashion however, then dystopiacore might be right up your monochrome, minimalist alley. Simply speaking, dystopiacore at its core is a darker and edgier fashion aesthetic that resembles the grunge and goth looks. And it couldn’t come at a better time, since gothcore, metalcore and punkcore are on the horizon to dominate fashion trends in 2022. In the mainstream once again, with a little help from the star-studded power couple Megan Fox and Machine Gun Kelly—as cringe as they may be—goth’s going chic. Dystopiacore is one of the many aesthetics to watch out for this year and here’s why.
Taking its name from the genre of dystopia, the category where utopian dreams come to die and fashion begins to thrive, dystopiacore epitomises the ‘too cool for school’ (and the world) mentality that I’m sure we’re all familiar with. In the wasteland of worries and woes about the future, as we approach yet another year living within the COVID 19 pandemic’s grasp, saying ‘fuck it’ looks pretty good to me.
Decked out in long black jackets, versatile trench coats and massive combat boots, gen Z are ditching stretchy waistbands and comfy loungewear. According to dystopiacore, joggers are out and cargos are in, people.
Gone is the work from home wear that most of us are sick of slumming it in, according to author and expert on everything gothic and to do with vampires, Nick Groom, who shared a few words with The Guardian on evolving fashion trends. “People have stopped the rather passive onesie/pyjama stay-at-home, work-from-home-in-your-comfort-clothes trend and realise that they need to be more active and get out,” Groom explained.
Trend forecaster Geraldine Wharry told The Guardian, “Fashion statements often have an element of defiance. In this particular case the defiance is the darkness and dystopian aspect.” I mean, what’s darker than totalitarian environmental degradation? “The idea that optimism is not cool and doesn’t reflect our current times, similar to what punks stood for during the 70s,” is where dystopiacore finds its appeal, Wharry continued.
Along with the rise of dopamine dressing—the maximalist rainbow throwup twin of dystopiacore—that is also a new trend for the 2022 wardrobe, not everyone is on board. It seems like we’re catching up with Hollywood’s releases of dark sci-fi blockbusters and keeping hold of our leather jackets after The Matrix Resurrections’ late 2021 release. With the world fawning over Timothée Chalamet (once again) for his appearance in the cinematic sci-fi epic Dune, fashion in this post-apocalyptic genre has been kickstarted once again.
Speaking to The Guardian, fashion professor Zara Anishanslin delved into the possible reasons for this spike in popularity towards doomsday apparel. “The experience of living through a pandemic is somewhat like that of living through a war: both are traumatising collective experiences, both have people battling on the ‘frontlines’, both result in a distressingly large number of deaths,” she told the publication.
Originally popularised by military soldiers, this trend of wearing durable, functional and resilient clothings has retained its uniquely universal utility aspect. To venture into the harsh and desolate world, people are using dystopiacore as a shield of armour of sorts. By now, we are all used to preparing ourselves for simple errands—PSA: always wear your mask, COVID-19 hasn’t suddenly disappeared after we were freed from incessant lockdowns.
We are in the midst of the Avant Apocalypse, for those of you who aren’t aware. The trend, currently booming on TikTok with #AvantApocalypse garnering over 280,000 videos on the platform, has given many the idea to distress their clothes. The DIY trend features creators tearing up their tights and stockings to turn them into tops and recycling old distressed clothes with archive fashion couture pieces to get that grunge but stylish look.
Dystopiacore takes the same sort of approach to fashion, fitting into the futuristic fantasy look with layers and layers of subversive basics clothes too. Think the outfits worn by new it couple Kanye West and Julia Fox, covered head to toe in Balenciaga. West’s own line of clothing, Yeezy, is the perfect example of dystopiacore.
As well as Balenciaga, other fashion houses are pinned as top makers of the military gear sported by wearers of this trend, like A-COLD-WALL*. Samuel Ross, the brand’s founder and fashion designer, spoke on the growth and push towards the futuristic aesthetic that dystopiacore offers. Addressing his dystopiacore-themed Autumn/Winter 2022 collection he recently presented in Milan, Ross said, “The idea of protection is a bit more universal across luxury, contemporary and streetwear now, for sure.”
“We’ve always had a utilitarian angle, but this season we wanted to bring in a more ‘on the nose aspect’,” Ross concluded. Maybe it truly is time to switch out the sweats for some cargos, huh.