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What TikTok is not telling you: Everything you need to know about at-home scalp care

By Harriet Piercy

Apr 24, 2022

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In an increasingly health-obsessed world, TikTok only continues to highlight areas of supposed self-care we might never have thought of before. While skincare had its moment in the spotlight, haircare is the latest trend to have its claws at our necks—or should we say scalps? It was just a short month ago that the ‘scalp check’ trend dominated the platform’s wellness corner and now, we’ve gone full-blown scalp health hooked. Let me explain.

@glowwithava

I am AMAZED!!! stay tuned for part 4 on how you can do it at home too 🤍 IG: GLOWWITHAVA #hairtips #scalp #healthyhair

♬ original sound - AVA

A healthy scalp is the essential foundation necessary for hair to grow, simple. It contains a greater number of vital oil and sweat glands than any other area of skin. So while we spend so much time (and money) on hair masks, overnight oils and all that jazz to look after the length of our hair, what if we’ve been neglecting the one area that can make all the difference?

Fun fact: your hair is actually technically dead. In other words, although all those costly hair serums might make you think you’re killing it in the locks department, you’ll have to focus right down to the ‘living’ follicles for deep change or impact. Factors like hair strength, growth, thickness and hair loss can all be attributed to the condition and healthiness of the scalp. Much like the skin everywhere else on your body, this part can become just as inflamed, aggravated or dehydrated.

Just to give you an example of how easily it can be affected from follicle to strand, if you have thinner or finer hair, you’re more likely to experience sun damage than those with thicker hair. Such a situation can create an oil imbalance as your scalp’s skin tries to soothe itself, and produce what we see as ‘grease’—though the oil acts as a protection, it isn’t necessarily wanted in excess either.

With a plethora of issues that could arise from incorrect care, there are routine things we should all be doing regardless of hair type—things that we may not even know to be a recommendation because of their obviousness.

Scalp treatment at home

Massage your scalp! You’re telling me we’re not relishing the ability to do this wonderful thing to ourselves, without a hairdresser who doesn’t listen, an uncomfortable sink rest and water which is either too hot or too cold, all from the comfort of our own homes? While there are an infinite number of scalp care treatments to try yourself, this suggestion is perhaps the easiest, most accessible and scientifically-backed one to note.

Anyway, the point is that you should make a habit of it because massaging your scalp will aid in removing unnecessary build-up of oils, dirt and sweat—not to mention the countless products and pollutants potentially clogging your follicles. I’m not telling you to do this every night either, the scalp is an extension of your delicate face, so utilise this method as you would an exfoliant—periodically. Doing so helps brush away dead skin cells to create space for any blocked or obstructed follicles to possibly produce more hair.

As trichologist (someone who studies and works with hair problems) Penny James told Highsnobiety, “The epidermis is all over our body, and it just so happens that we have about 100,000 follicles all over our scalp. That’s the only difference.”

Our crowns are also populated with a variety of microorganisms that form what is known as the scalp microbiome—a liveable environment made up of pH, sebum content, moisture and topography. Basically, our bodies are a complex community of systems, all seeking symbiosis. Any modification on a bodily system (think computers or road traffic to imagine the repercussions) will have an effect elsewhere.

The truth about scalp care

Let’s talk about washing your hair for a second. We are all wonderfully different, and there’s no one-size-fits-all as we know, but it’s also a well-known fact that many of us wash our hair far too frequently. This can be overly stripping and create an overproduction of sebum to counteract the dryness, in turn making way for a greasier mane. You can even train your scalp and create a cycle of your own, so why not try pushing back ‘wash day’ by one day at a time? Like we said, it’s a perfect little ecosystem up there, one that will look after itself as long as you don’t irritate your scalp with all the products you can’t help buying. And therein lies the problem: overconsumption.

The beauty industry is now undoubtedly booming with scalp care products—before we know it there will even be a night-time cream and its day-time counterpart as well as an anti-wrinkle routine for our hair beds. Genetics considered, scalp issues are influenced by a range of factors. Much like everything else in our body, it is all connected—our lifestyle choices and diet are the motherships we should all be working on. So, don’t go wasting your money on things that are only, literally, masking the root of the problem.

Trichologist Guy Parsons confirmed this by telling Harper’s Bazaar that a scalp is like “the flower bed and soil from which your hair grows.” Rather than lathering ‘quick fixes’ that have been specifically marketed at you in the supermarket aisles of your computer cookies, choose to heal whatever is going on with your skin from the inside out—in simple terms, what you eat. We’ll get into the right foods soon enough, but first, we wanted to clarify the importance general self-care can have on your mental health.

Indulge in those hair masks if they make you feel good—as a friend of SCREENSHOT told us, “I like using something that smells nice and feels nourishing, even if it isn’t that great in the long term just because it makes me dedicate the time it takes to myself and nothing else, all because of a hair mask.” There’s nothing wrong with giving yourself some ‘you’ time, just be aware of the context, and know that there are everyday choices that can help with the overall issue.

If you do want to get products involved in your self-care routine, Parsons recommended staying away from “ingredients that ‘block’ or suffocate the scalp from breathing. Look [out] for ingredients ending in ‘cones’(silicones, dimethicones, trimethicone), which are added to make hair feel softer, suppler and more moisturised, but [actually] are molecularly heavy and will block the scalp. Known irritants would be another thing to avoid.” He went on to say that “things like heavy hold sticky gels, mousses for hair sprays with a high alcohol content could cause extreme dryness to the scalp.”

What should I eat for better scalp health?

Start by including eggs in your diet, as they are a great source of biotin, which is essential for the production of keratin (a type of protein that makes up your hair, skin and nails). Eggs are also great sources of zinc, selenium and all micronutrients needed to keep all the systems in our body running in tune. Pretty neat, I know.

Then, include antioxidants—vitamin C being a big one since it helps the body produce collagen (a protein responsible for skin elasticity) and absorb iron from your diet. In case you didn’t know, iron deficiency is usually around when hair loss conversations are at play.

Next up are vitamin A and omega-3 fatty acids. Include those dark leafy greens and nuts such as walnuts, seeds like pumpkin or flaxseeds and fatty fish too if you eat that. Your body really needs them, they’re high in protein, selenium, vitamin D3 and B vitamins.

Overall, your diet should include as much variety as possible, in textures, colours and tastes. It’s all relevant to something somewhere, and side note: if you eat better, your mind will think better. Significant stress pushes a large number of hair follicles into a resting phase, which is why hair is lost during stressful times. You will be put under a lot less stress biologically without you even thinking about it when you eat a wholesome diet.

There’s a new trend on TikTok where users compare their scalps. Here’s why

By Francesca Johnson

Mar 19, 2022

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If there’s one thing I’m sure of by now, it’s that TikTok never ceases to amaze me, though most of the time, it’s not in a good way. Today, I have a bone to pick with a recent (and bizarre) trend native to the app—one that led me to spend the last few evenings inspecting my scalp with a mirror in one hand and my phone camera in the other, nitpicking at the newly discovered imperfections of my scalp. That’s right, I just wrote ‘scalp’.

Introducing TikTok’s ‘scalp check’ trend, a new mania where users on the app try to figure out whether they’re bound to become bald or not—no matter how young they may be.If you believe those who participate in the movement, how nicely your parted hair looks in aerial view says a lot about how much hair you’ll have on top of your head in the next few years. Currently at 58.9 million views, the hashtag #scalpcheck has gen Zers literally checking their scalps and houses videos with hundreds of thousands of comments from those with scalp envy. The world has truly gone mad.

But why are TikTokers so worried about their potentially receding hairline and why does it feel like yet another impossible beauty standard has come out of the woodwork for us to fear?

What is the scalp check trend?

While over on platforms like YouTube typing in #scalpcheck will result in a page full of ASMR videos to tickle your sensory fancy—with a dash of vigorous shampooing and a head massaging to boot—TikTok is home to a very different type of hair-related content. Though there remains a marginal part of the app’s community—which still manages to rack in views in the millions—that perform ASMR scalp checks, most recently videos currently under the hashtag showcase people either proudly sifting through ten out of ten tresses or embarrassingly exposing aerial shots of their roots.

I, for one, only ever took notice of my scalp for two things growing up: dandruff and the feared head lice. However, it seems like balding is now the top priority for gen Z. There are several reasons why your hair might be falling out, aside from the loose shedding that’s normal to experience. GQ labels salt intake among some of the other reasons—such as genetics, medication, stress and even diet—why you may experience hair loss.

Speaking with Kevin Moore, a trichologist (which is an expert on all things hair) at Regrowz, GQ explained that too much salt in your diet can “definitely” damage the health of your hair and potentially cause it to fall out.

“Consuming too much salt will cause a build-up of sodium which will then develop around hair follicles. This affects the blood circulation flowing to the hair follicles and prevents essential nutrients getting to the follicles. Eventually, this causes hair to become lifeless, dull and even causes hair loss,” Moore added.

That being said, if you’re about ready to throw out your salt and vinegar crisp stash, you may want to hold off. GQ stressed that we should take heed of genetics, which are, unfortunately, a key player when it comes to your hair, according to nutritionist and co-author of The Detox Kitchen Bible, Rob Hobson.

“There’s not a huge amount you can do to prevent balding. If you’re low in iron it can make hair brittle, and B vitamins are involved in how healthy your hair is,” Hobson shared with the outlet.

Follicle flexing? Check

Sporting your side-part for views is a new way to signal your superiority, apparently. Though the scalp checking trend is nowhere near as harmful as its scalp popping sibling, it is slowly turning into yet another beauty standard for people to measure up to. Like seriously, I lose cool points for having an itchy scalp now? How are we even supposed to keep up anymore?

@graceebrown18

My biggest flex as a fake blonde of 5 years…. It’s all mine #scalpcheck #hair #LinkBudsNeverOff #OREOBdayStack

♬ IMA NEED MY SKATES geetheharajuku - ✰
@theaussierapunzel

Healthy hair starts from the scalp @rapunzelrescuehair ✨ #scalpcheck #hairtok

♬ original sound - Yaya 😛

Insecurities? Check

The trend has evidently led many to question their hair health and even feel insecure about their scalp’s appearance. Ridiculous, right? At least, the comments sections don’t lie and I think I’ve found my people in some of them.

“Never thought I would be jealous of a scalp but here we are,” said one user with over 72,000 likes on their comment. “Cannot believe the internet has come to this,” another said. “No we are not about to do scalp check trends [right now] it’s my biggest insecurity,” stated someone else.

In the comments of one viral video made by @thefabulouscourtney, users noted how this trend is leading the way for more insecurities to arise, such as having a cowlick, for example. Though there are ways to get rid of them—mainly by training your hair to form in a different way—cowlicks are small quirks that we shouldn’t feel the need to overcome.

Magic fixes? Check, check and check

But what if it’s too late and you’ve already fallen into the bald-fearing hysteria?? Well, before you go start shaving your head, know that SCREENSHOT has previously covered carrot oil as a possible magic cure for hair growth.

Caster oil has also come up time and time again as the heralded secret elixir to make your locks more luscious. Meanwhile, according to Harper’s Bazaar, rosemary oil is the way to go. Byrdie also listed off a few food remedies that you can pull out from your cupboards to combat the dreaded thinning scalp.

Last but not least, scalp checks themselves may be a possible answer too—in a strange full circle ouroboros type of way—since they point out the very problems you might need to solve. The practice is actually a hairstylist go-to that, when done correctly, can be quite beneficial for mane maintenance. In response to the trend’s rise in popularity, professionals have now taken to sharing their own experience with the practice and are dishing out tips online so as to not make everyone so insecure, but instead allow them to check the health of their head of hair at home.

@glowwithava

the scalp series continues... stay tuned for part 2!! #scalp #beautytipswithava #hairjourney #scalpcheck

♬ original sound - AVA

 

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